The guide

Everything we
had to learn
the hard way.

Written by members who have done the thing being described. Most of us got it wrong the first time, and the detail here comes from that.

Folded handwoven aso-oke cloth, emerald green with fine gold stripes, resting on ivory linen
Aso-oke, woven strip by strip Each question added as someone worked it out

Chapter one · First 72 hours

Thirteen things,
in the order they
have to happen.

Some carry a deadline and one of them is the law. Tick them off as you go. The marks stay on this phone and are never sent anywhere.

0/13

  1. At the airport
  2. 01

    Clear immigration and keep the arrival card

    Before you leave the terminal

    You will give fingerprints at a machine before the desk. The officer then stamps your passport with the date you entered. Every deadline below counts from that stamp, so photograph it while you are still standing there.

  3. 02

    Get a Chinese phone number

    Do this first because everything else needs it

    China Mobile, China Unicom and China Telecom all have counters in the arrivals hall. Bank accounts, payment apps, food delivery, hospital registration and police appointments are all tied to a Chinese number, so you cannot put this off. Bring your passport, because the number is registered to it.

    A number bought in someone else’s name will fail verification later. Register it to yourself.

  4. 03

    Have a way to pay tonight

    Foreign cards mostly will not work

    Most taxis, shops and restaurants take only WeChat Pay or Alipay. Until those are working, carry a few hundred yuan in cash from an airport ATM. Do not count on a foreign card being accepted anywhere except the airport and large hotels.

  5. First 24 hours
  6. 04

    Register where you are sleeping with the police

    Within 24 hours of arrival, and it is the law

    Every foreigner in China must have their address on file with the local police station. Hotels do this at check-in, so ask reception to confirm it and keep the slip they give you. When you are staying in a flat, a friend’s place or a dormitory that has not registered you, go to the police station that covers that address rather than whichever one is closest.

    You will be asked for this registration slip when you apply for a residence permit and again when you open a bank account, and replacing a lost one can cost you weeks.

  7. 05

    Set up WeChat and turn on WeChat Pay

    Nothing else works properly until this does

    WeChat is messaging, payment, ID, taxi, delivery and appointment booking in one app. Register with your new Chinese number, then open Me → Services → Wallet and add a card. Foreign Visa and Mastercard now work for most everyday payments.

    Ask a friend already in China to help verify your account. New accounts sometimes need a scan from an existing user.

  8. 06

    Tell people at home how to reach you

    Before anyone starts worrying

    WhatsApp, Instagram, Facebook and Google services do not work on ordinary Chinese networks. Your family will not be able to reach you the way they did yesterday. Send them your WeChat ID and your new number today, and agree on a check-in time.

  9. Day two and three
  10. 07

    Learn to move around the city

    The metro is the cheapest thing here

    Shenzhen Metro runs everywhere you are likely to need and costs a few yuan a trip. Open the Metro ride code inside WeChat or Alipay and scan at the gate. There is no physical card to buy. For anything the metro does not reach, use Didi rather than hailing on the street.

  11. 08

    Install the six apps that make daily life work

    Maps, food, shopping, translation

    Amap or Baidu Maps for navigation, Meituan or Ele.me for food, Didi for rides, Taobao or JD for everything else, and Pleco for translating what is in front of you. Add Chinese handwriting input to your phone keyboard as well, so you can copy out characters you have no way of typing.

  12. 09

    Open a Chinese bank account

    Set aside a morning and take everything listed

    Bank of China and ICBC are the most used to foreign customers. Go to a large branch, take a number, and expect it to take two hours. Once the account is live, bind it inside WeChat Pay and Alipay, and paying for things stops being a daily problem.

  13. 10

    Report to your school or your employer

    They start your residence permit

    Your university international office or your company HR holds the paperwork that turns your entry visa into a residence permit. Go in person and go early. They will tell you which medical check you need and book it for you.

  14. Before day thirty
  15. 11

    Do the medical check

    Go early and do not eat beforehand

    The health check for a residence permit is done at a designated centre rather than at an ordinary hospital. They take blood and do a chest X-ray and an ECG. Results take several working days, so the earlier you go the less it holds up the permit.

  16. 12

    Convert your visa into a residence permit

    Within 30 days of the entry stamp

    You apply at the Exit-Entry Administration of the Shenzhen Public Security Bureau. Your school or employer usually books the appointment and comes with you. If you miss the thirty days you are out of status, and sorting that out takes both time and money.

    Count the thirty days from the stamp in your passport, not from the day you moved in.

  17. 13

    Find the rest of us

    Do this before you need it

    NIS has members in every district and coordinators at most of the universities. Whatever you run into next, someone here has already dealt with it, so join and come to an event and ask.

    Join NIS →
  18. The list ends here.

    Everything after this is ordinary life, and the questions below cover it: where to live, what districts cost, how tax works, and where to eat like you are at home.

Chapter two · The questions

Asked and answered,
by people who live here.

10 questions, each one answered in full by a member who had to work it out first.

Start from where you are

Immigration

Money

Getting around

Language

Living here

Work and tax